Yummy
watercolor 6 x 9"
Paints used for this
painting:
(Winsor Newton and M.
Graham mostly, Holbein where noted.)
- Cadmium Lemon
- New Gamboge (similar to Cadmium Yellow Medium)
- Cadmium Orange
- Permanent Rose
- Napthol Red (similar to Cadmium Red)
- Alizarin Crimson
- Dioxazine Violet
- Peacock Blue (Holbein)
- Cobalt Blue
- Ultramarine Blue
- Hookers Green
- Burnt Sienna
- Burnt Umber
- Indanthrene Blue + Maroon Pyrelene = Black
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Step 1 - pencil drawing
on the paper.
For a complicated
composition like this, I wanted an accurate drawing. I printed the photograph, then made an
outline drawing using tracing paper.
Using my home-made carbon paper*, I transferred the drawing unto the
watercolor paper.
The drawing was quite dark, so I gently rubbed a kneaded eraser over
it to lift up some of the dark pencil lines.
I put masking fluid on the small white highlights on each of the
candies.
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Step 2 -the color field
I paint in layers, so
step 2 is painting the first layer.
I call this my “base layer”, because I am
painting the color of the subject, albeit with some variety. This is done in
sections, painting every item separately.
First, I put in a wash of clear water,
then flood the colors into the water, using a variety of colors.
For example:
For the red candy, I used
Permanent Rose and Alizarin Crimson
Remember, the pigments
flow with the water, so let the water do the work!
You can tilt the paper to let the colors mix, but don’t do too much brushwork. This mingling of the pigments in the water is
the beauty of watercolor.
Let each section dry
completely before painting the section next to it, otherwise the colors will
run.
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Step 3 – Shadows
Once the first layer of
color is laid down, I proceeded to paint the shadows.
I used Dioxazine Violet
to paint the shadows on almost all the candies, except for Ultramarine Blue for the blue candies and black for the brown and green candy. I painted the dark shadow of the candies, then used clear water to soften the edge of the shadow.
For the
cast shadows, I painted wet on wet, using clear water and flooding Dioxazine Violet and Cobalt Blue into the water.
I also added that touch of paint that makes the little glow of color from the candies.
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Step 4 – Value adjusting
The darks needed to be a
little bit darker, so I repainted them all using black (a mixture of Maroon
Pyrelene and Indanthrene Blue), Burnt Umber, and Dioxazine Violet. Again, wet
on wet, using clear water and flooding in the paint.
Look how beautiful these
shadows are! You don’t get that by mixing colors on your palette. **
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Step 5 – Deeper colors
Look at those yummy
colors!
finished painting "Yummy"
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Step 6 – details.
When the paint is dry, I
removed the little spots of masking fluid. The hard-edged spots don’t look
realistic, so I use a small hard bristle brush and water to soften the edges.
I also use a sharp brush
to dampen the right edge of the candies, and then pick up a little pigment with
a paper towel. Add a touch more color if you feel you've removed too much paint
The final analysis-
A problem with working
from a photograph is that I can see too many details. I frequently step back
from my painting to see if it is working: color, value, edges, etc. If it looks
good, I don’t worry about how accurately it copies the photograph. In this
case, I love the combination of hard and soft edges that keep my eye roaming
around the painting.
*Home-made carbon paper-
I prefer this over the
commercial art transfer papers I’ve used.
a sheet of tracing paper plus
a very soft pencil, like a 7B or 8B. Draw dark strokes over one side of the
paper until looks covered. Rub it with a paper towel to get off a lot of the
loose graphite. This will last a long time. It does leave a lot of smudging on
the paper, but I usually rub a kneaded
eraser very light over the transferred drawing to pick up some of the smudged
areas.
** Doesn’t the water wash
out the color underneath? No, not as long as you aren’t brushing it too much.
The dry paint will stay put for the most part, unless it is disturbed with a
lot of brushing. Water, good, Brush, bad.